This is an English version of my article appearing in the current issue of Mixology Magazine:
INNOVATIVE IRISH
By Kevin Erskine
Originally published in German in Mixology Magazine Issue 6/2008
The best cocktails are the ones that offer flavour complexity – built by using individual components – with each ingredient shining on its own. Fresh fruits, creams, juices, spices and herbs are being used in growing numbers – replacing the premixed mixes unfortunately clung to by the lesser bartender. More mixologists are experimenting with unusual flavours – using a wider variety of ingredients, which, at first blush, seem incongruent – but when combined in the appropriate manner prove to create new and unique flavour profiles.
However you may agree that the basis for these cocktails is far too often the same old white spirits – with mixologists tending to stick to the more neutral of these liquors. It’s the real daredevils who are branching out into more strongly flavoured spirits – including brown spirits – such as aged rum and tequilas.
Where many of these experimentalists fail is that instead of complementing these strong flavours, the mixologist tends to minimize and cover them. An over-abundance of sweet is the lazy-bartender’s way to try to subdue tequila (e.g., the Margarita). To my mind, the best bartenders are those who can create a delicious cocktail from the most flavoursome of spirits – and none are more flavourful (or varied in flavours) than the whiskies of the world. But, if the concept of a whisk(e)y cocktail sends shivers up your spine, might I suggest you consider, perhaps, Irish whiskey.
For the most part Irish whiskey is served widely only during March (St. Patrick’s Day celebrations generally feature the “Irish Car Bomb” – a shot glass of half Irish Whiskey and half Cream Liqueur dropped into a half pint of Stout – and consumed “shooter” style); Winter (the “Irish Coffee” – a tasty mixture of Whiskey, Coffee, Sugar & Cream) or in any sort of manly bonding involving mass consumption of alcohol (shots).
You’ll note that these methods of consumption has one or two common elements:
1. Disguising of the whiskey so as to be unrecognizable or
2. The consumption occurring so quickly as minimize the experience
I contend that Irish whiskey should be given a place befitting it’s long and honoured history – and any mixologist worth his salt should add one or more whisk(e)y cocktails to his or her signature repertoire. The lighter flavours of Irish whiskey allow you to play off the sweetness – and not wrestle against more complex peat-based flavor of some Scotch whiskies or the rougher and sharper bite of American Bourbons. There are some who decry the relative blandness of Irish whiskey – and while the smoothness can sometimes give a perception of blandness, if you are worried about ensuring flavour – look to Cooley.
I recently traveled to Dublin where I visited Cooley and Locke’s (the oldest continually licensed distillery in the world ) distilleries – these 2 distilleries have the distinction of being the ONLY independent distilleries in Ireland and are both held by the Cooley Distilling Group. More than the independent status, what makes The Cooley distilleries unique is that they are driven by innovation. Despite the accepted view that Irish Whiskey is distilled 3 times; Cooley & Locke’s distill twice – turning out a more flavourful – yet still light and crisp – line of whiskies. Also unusual among Irish whiskies is Cooley’s use of peat.
Greenore Single Grain; Kilbeggan Blended; Tyrconnell Single Malt and Connemara (Ireland’s only peated Single Malt) are the marque brands in the Cooley line-up. Inishowen, a new favourite of mine, is a lightly peated blended whiskey with great maltiness.
Greenore, the first widely available Irish GRAIN whiskey is a sterling example of Cooley innovation. Light and nutty, with sweet corn overtones and vanilla and oak notes with a slight bitterness at the finish, the innate grain sweetness lends itself ideally to your first foray into Irish whiskey cocktail formulation. Here’s one to get you started…
Dublin Breeze
-
2 Parts Greenore Grain Whiskey
1 Part Honey Liqueur (Irish Mist)
.5 Part Fresh Squeezed Lime Juice
1 dash bitters
Mix Well. Pour into Highball glass filled with Ice
Top with Ginger Beer
Garnish with Lime wedge